Gathering the dough into a ball, I inhaled the scent of the cardamom and butter, warm in my hands. Like all those memories from my childhood, the feelings stirring in my heart filled me with a sense of love, a security in belonging.
My family’s roots burrow deep into Norwegian and Norwegian-American history. With a dad who immigrated as a preteen and a mother who’s also Norwegian, by way of North Dakota, the culture and heritage of my family’s past was as familiar to me as the sandwiches, salads, pizza and burgers that were part of my American childhood. Though I could identify many of the flavors and treats as Norwegian–probably because they came directly from my grandmothers–I knew them well. I loved the flavors, too, even though it would take many years to realize just how special they were. Today, I keep an empty spice jar in my office. Recently containing cardamom, it was too precious to discard it when I replaced the spent stash. A whiff of nostalgia awaits, with the unscrewing of the cap.
I write about Norwegian food (and if you’re new around here, that’s where I’ve directed my energy as a former news journalist turned food writer) because I believe with all my heart that one of the most profound ways we can show love and extend hospitality and acceptance with those around us is at the table. I never could have realized as a child at any of those family dinners that I was receiving a gift–one of unconditional love and of selfless hospitality, of my Norwegian-American heritage, and of my family itself. But I felt it in my heart. When I was mature–or perhaps wise–enough to realize it, I discovered a truth that I will always cherish.
So today I bring you a recipe for fattigmann cookies, cardamom-scented Norwegian cookies that somehow bring all those memories of childhood back with just its aroma. To many, fattigmann–which can be translated as “poor men”–are an essential part of Christmas, a requisite member of the syv slags kaker, or seven sorts of Norwegian Christmas cookies. These represent an important element of the baking tradition in that they’re fried. Norwegian Christmas cookies fall into three camps: baked (like Berlinerkranser and pepperkaker), cooked on irons (like krumkaker and goro) and fried (like fattigmann, smultringer, and rosettes).
Though they’re known as fattigmann amongst Norwegians, people in other Nordic countries know cookie, or crullers, of this type as klenäter, klejner, kleina, and kleynur. I could go on about the history and cultural context–and I will someday–but for now, I’m hoping that the personal and familial significance resonates with and perhaps inspires you. Because it’s never just about the food. We need to eat for sustenance, sure. But I think that those of us with Scandinavian-American backgrounds (including those who appreciate the culture for other reasons) value the food of our heritage because it reminds us where our families have come from. It prompts memories of special times and people in our lives. No matter what those recipes or dishes are for you, I’m hoping that I’ll inspire you to make some of those and to reflect on the people you cherish.
Fattigmann
As with many of the Norwegian Christmas cookies, you’ll want to plan ahead for these: Mix up the dough on one day, fry the cookies the next. Ideally you’ll use a fattigman roller (available at Scandinavian supply stores and online), although you can use a pastry wheel as well. As for the Cognac, if you have it, then go ahead and use it. Bourbon will also work in a pinch.
5 egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup whipping cream
1-2 Tb Cognac or brandy
1 3/4 cups flour
1/2-1 teaspoon freshly-ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 cup melted butter
Canola oil, for frying
Powdered sugar, for dusting
In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar thoroughly. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in cream and brandy. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, cardamom, salt and baking powder. Add the dry ingredients a bit at a time, alternating with the melted butter, adding a little more flour if needed to make a dough that will roll well, but work the dough just as little as needed. Refrigerate overnight.
When you’re ready to make the fattigmann cookies, roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8 inch thick. Cut using a fattigmann roller and separate the diamonds. Work one of the ends through the slit, repeating with each one. I find that it’s helpful to hold one end up and give it a slight shake to let gravity gently elongate the dough before placing it in the hot oil.
Heat about two inches of oil to 350-375 degrees in a heavy pan. Working in batches so they fit in a single layer, fry the fattigmann cookies, flipping them with tongs when one side is golden, and removing as soon as the other side colors. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined surface to drain and cool slightly, then dust with powdered sugar. These are best the day they’re made.
Find this and even more sweet and savory treats in my cookbook Modern Scandinavian Baking!
16 thoughts on “Norwegian Christmas Cookies: Fattigmann”
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Would be much appreciated if you could arrange your recipes to PRINT RECIPE ONLY without comments etc. which wastes so much paper and ink. Today I printed the Fattigmann recipe and used 7 pages….only wanted the recipe. Some sites are able to do this and it is what I personally prefer. Thank you.
You can fix that in your printers settings, or before you print look at the option that says “Pages” and un-check “print all” and change it to only print pages 7 & 8.
pepperkakor, fattigman -and rosettes were made by my Swedish grandmother, and I still make them every Christmas. So not just Norwegian! I even have Grama’s fattigman roller and rosette iron.
I grew up thinking these were Italian because my Italian grandmother made them every year. Turns out she had Norwegian friends! Will always be a favorite!
how long can I store fattigmann in tins? Plain and with powdered sugar?
These looks so good! Are they crunchy like a cookie or soft like a doughnut?
My grandmother and my mother all made them and I carry on the traditions and I taught my daughter to make them all
Would you know where any of these cookies can be purchased
My Aunt would make Fattigman for Thanksgiving and for Christmas Eve. She would bring a huge Turkey Roaster full of these delightful cookies. After sprinkling with powdered sugar she would put paper towels in the bottom and gently put the cookies in. They always stayed krispy for days in that roaster!
How do I print the fattigman recipe?
My Dad would speak lovingly of the fattigmann cookies his mother made, but I never had them. My mother was Austrian. Am going make these, having been reminded of them in a story by Sigrid Undset. Norwegians know who SHE is.
What if you don’t have a fittigman cutter? What could you use instead?
You can use a pastry cutter. Cut the rolled dough in lines so that they form long triangles. Then make a small slit in the center of the triangle to push the one set of opposite ends through the center of the cookie.
I fried in lard at 375 until golden a little brown but they were still uncooked all the way. Did roll it quite thin………cooking longer just madd them too dark.